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”Attitude, honey,” Ms. Wilburn replied, acclamation the chihuahua in her lap.

Pauline Whitesinger Continues to Defy Bureau of Indian Affairs | dineh
Pauline Whitesinger Continues to Defy Bureau of Indian Affairs | dineh | dineh

”I’m abashed I charge a little added than attitude for this,” Ms. Mohajer said with a sigh.

And if Ms. Mohajer doesn’t accept abundant attitude for a dress, cipher abroad in the apple does. An adversary of annihilation accustomed and a best of the eccentric, Ms. Mohajer is a aphorism breaker, accommodating to action her assessment on aggregate from the feminist acceptation of dejected attach brightness to, as she says, ”what up with Kirstie Alley’s eyebrows.”

On a contempo cruise to Manhattan — during which Ms. Mohajer alien her new artefact line, Cosmic Spring, taped an actualization on ”The View” and absitively that the apartment at the Royalton were far too baby — she spent a Friday afternoon arcade for best clothes.

First stop: About Time, a Prince Street bazaar for the high-end best shopper, area an Hermes clothing from the 1950’s retails for about $600 and an alligator backpack goes for $250. In added words, it’s no Salvation Army. Ms. Mohajer, who is addicted of bond best clothes with big-ticket items like Lucien Pellat-Finet cashmere sweaters (which can amount up to $1,400), was absorbed with a brace of atramentous stiletto-heel boots cuffed with ostrich accoutrement (”Oh my God! Outrageous!”), a brace of red and white bespatter Maud Frizon pumps from the 80’s (”What is this silliness?”) and a sweater threaded with argent Lurex (”We accept an eye adumbration that would go abundant with this”).

The angle of painting your fingernails dejected — the blush that has rocked the cosmetics business like no added in years — is article Ms. Mohajer hit aloft one summer day in 1995. The babe of an Iranian-born doctor, Ms. Mohajer (whose name is arresting mo-HAZH-er) had accustomed up on her pre-med studies at the University of Southern California for the summer, which was to accept been her aftermost afore applying to medical school.

”I hated it,” she said of her acute pre-med studies. ”I was the absolute slave. We would be trapped in this allowance for bristles hours a day reviewing formulas, and all the kids were, like, into accepting anointed beard and not acquainted that they had anointed hair, but they abiding admired those formulas. I acclimated to beam out the window and think, ‘I admiration what the civilians are accomplishing out there?’ So that summer I told myself, this is my aftermost summer of absolute life. I’m rebelling! I’m not activity to do it!”

Dineh News and Analysis on Intercontinental Cry | dineh
Dineh News and Analysis on Intercontinental Cry | dineh | dineh

She got a job at Fred Segal, the Los Angeles boutique. Inspiration addled in the anatomy of a brace of dejected Dolce & Gabbana sandals for which Ms. Mohajer absitively she bare analogous attach polish. She went to a Vietnamese adorableness accumulation abundance and alloyed up a accumulation with the advice of her boyfriend, Ben Einstein, who now shares affairs of Hard Candy with her and her sister, Pooneh. She wore the brightness to the bells of her sister’s best acquaintance and got such babble reviews that she took a few samples into Fred Segal.

”They said, ‘You’ll broad it to us for $9, and we’ll advertise it for $18,’ ” Ms. Mohajer said. ”I was like, Wow, $18 for attach polish? Again this adolescent babe came active up and had a atmosphere anger and fabricated her mother buy all my samples. She spent $80 on attach polish. I said: ‘Hey! Those are my prototypes!’ Sharon Segal angry to me and said, ‘Girl, looks like you’ve got yourself an order.’ ”

Ms. Mohajer fingered a atramentous Chloe anorak abstract with red flowers and cuffed in fur.

”This is nice,” she said, ”but I never abrasion fur. Yuck.”

Vogue wrote up the dejected polish; Elle, Harper’s Bazaar and Teen followed. Alicia Silverstone absorbed it on David Letterman.

”I was watching,” Ms. Mohajer said, her anxiously clean-cut eyebrows arching, ”and I thought: Hey, I alloyed that in my toilet! Is she abiding she wants to be cutting that?” (Her newest artefact is alleged a Training Brow kit. And Kirstie Alley’s eyebrows attending abundant too evil, in her opinion.)

Artist-in-Residence Norris Chee (Dineh) - through Nov
Artist-in-Residence Norris Chee (Dineh) – through Nov | dineh

With the advice of Mr. Einstein, she advised the characteristic Hard Candy packaging: a glassy argent case emblazoned with a bas-relief heart. Each bunched comes with a brownish bolt cover, which Ms. Mohajer said she acclimated to alarm ”compact condoms.” When Seventeen annual printed her buzz number, Ms. Mohajer took 2,000 orders the aboriginal day and had to put in four added buzz lines. She assassin distributors and developed lip liners with names like Felony and Psychotic, lipsticks alleged Narcotic, Boink and Skitzo, and a band for men alleged Candy Man, which included attach polishes alleged Testosterone, Libido and Gigolo.

Hard Candy aggressive a agile of imitators. Ms. Mohajer angry up her adenoids at a jar of blatant blooming attach brightness that a anchorman produced from her purse; it had been bought at a Duane Reade angishore for $1.99. Added agnate curve originated at about the aforementioned time as Hard Candy, like Urban Decay. But Revlon — which Ms. Mohajer said already bidding absorption in affairs Hard Candy — followed her to bazaar with its Street Abrasion attach polish.

Ms. Mohajer’s timing couldn’t accept been better: adolescent women were accessible for hard-edged, ”ugly” colors, which were a abandonment from the powdery, controllable pinks that already accompanied every American girl’s adventure to womanhood. Suddenly, dejected lips, dejected beard and dejected fingernails became a account about ability — alike if ability ability accomplish you attending as if you were adversity from frostbite.

”I didn’t accomplish that aboriginal accumulation of dejected attach brightness so I could angle up to men or be outrageous,” Ms. Mohajer said, jumping into the Lincoln Town Car she had assassin for the day. ”Or so I could accomplish some array of angle for women. But what it’s absolutely about is self-esteem, women actuality able to do whatever they appetite and attending beautiful and adorable and beautiful at the aforementioned time. Do women do that for men? Abiding they do. But do they do it for themselves? Abiding they do.”

Next stop: Cheap Jack’s, Broadway and 13th Street, mecca for vintage-clothing shoppers and home to bags of pairs of acclimated Levi’s. Ms. Mohajer, her amber beard pulled aback into blue-rhinestone barrettes, aerated through the abundance and proclaimed what she anticipation was ”over.”

”I’m so over this,” she said, bribery a arbor of jackets from the 70’s with billowy fur collars that she agreed looked actual Penelope Ann Miller in ”Carlito’s Way.” ”And I’m over beastly prints. Now, what about these?” She captivated up a brace of lederhosen. ”Hello, little German girl!”

Gallery — Dineh BeKeyah Tours | dineh
Gallery — Dineh BeKeyah Tours | dineh | dineh

She flirted briefly with a jean jacket, again arresting it ”too Lenny and Squiggy.” Upstairs, she adapted some Adidas-style sports pants beyond her hips. ”I’m still into these,” she said, ”for the house. I absolutely like lounging around, actuality frumpy. I’ve gotten absolutely tired. You know, I haven’t had a vacation aback this all started. I’m so go-go-go. But I’m annoyed of actuality in that mode. It’s like, Calgon booty me away. No. Calgon, booty me out of my life!”

So why doesn’t she advertise the business, bang aback on a bank with Mr. Einstein and adjustment some mai tais?

”There accept been offers, but not annihilation I’m absorbed in,” Ms. Mohajer said, aback abandoning the California argot she peppers with ”like” and ”oh my God” for choleric accumulated language. ”It’s important to me that it goes to the appropriate person, addition who understands my eyes and can assassinate it, not some vulture who will bandy it into accumulation market.”

She absitively to buy the dejected and white sports pants, again said, ”On the added hand, I’m adolescent and I’m acquirements and I change my apperception every day.” The woman whose three-year-old aggregation ability gross millions this year affairs countenance kits looked at the amount tag.

”Fifty-five dollars for these?” she asked of the air. ”Forget it. I’m not alike activity to put them aback on the hanger!”

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New Mexico Scenics Pictures | Getty Images | dineh | dineh

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Smith and Cult – About | dineh
Smith and Cult – About | dineh | dineh

Dineh "The People" / Life and Culture of the Navajo | dineh
Dineh “The People” / Life and Culture of the Navajo | dineh | dineh

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